Umbria, “the green heart of Italy,” is a land-locked region in the center of Italy. Umbria is home to the beautiful cities of Assisi, Perugia, Spoleto, and Gubbio. It is a sparsely populated natural paradise dominated by agriculture, nature, and forests. And, Umbria is home to Lago Trasimeno, the fourth-largest lake in Italy. In addition to the history, culture, art, and food of the region, Lago Trasimeno is home to a wine region worth discovering.
The Wine Region of Colli del Trasimeno
Colli del Trasimeno is one of the 13 DOCs in Umbria. It is a small appellation with approximately 270 hectares (670 acres) of vineyards planted on the hills around the lake. With neither mountains nor sea close to Trasimeno, it is Lago Trasimeno, as well as three other small lakes in the area, Lago di Montepulciano and Lago di Pietrafitta in Umbria, and Lago di Chiusi in Tuscany, that are the greatest influence on the grapes. Summers are hot but not dry and winters are cold but not freezing. The lakes provide ventilation and humidity, and the wind blows all day, drying the humidity after it rains. There is a diurnal shift between day and night and no fog. As for soils, there are sand and rocks, calcareous and clay soils, and a mix of sand, rocks, and clay around the lake. Overall, the grapes grown around Lago Trasimeno are in a prime growing environment.
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The Grapes of Trasimeno
Colli di Trasimeno DOC includes red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines as well as Vin Santo. The most common indigenous white grapes are Grechetto and Trebbiano. The red grapes found in Trasimeno are the indigenous Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese, as well as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. But the flagship grape is Gamay of Trasimeno.
Actually, Gamay di Trasimeno is not the Gamay grape but rather Grenache. The first viticultural transcriptions were made by those who traded with the south of France and the grape was incorrectly called Gamay. This misidentification was finally corrected after recent genetic research at the University of Perugia found that the grape was part of the Grenache family, and is the same as Cannonau in Sardinia, Tai Rosso in Veneto, Bordò in Marche, Garnacha in Spain, and Grenache in France.
It is believed that Grenache first came to Trasimeno around 1600. During that time, Spain dominated Central and Southern Italy. It is believed that in 1610, when Duchess Eleonora Mendoza married Fulvio Alessandro della Corgna, the last lord of Castiglione del Lago, vines from Spain were brought as part of her dowry.
Therefore Grenache, currently still called Gamay di Trasimeno, is indigenous to Lago Trasimeno.
Wine Tasting Around Lago di Trasimeno
RECOMMENDED: Book a Guided Wine Tour in the Umbrian and Tuscan hills, between Lake Trasimeno and Lake Chiusi
The DOC Trasimeno mainly includes the municipalities of Castiglione del Lago, Magione, Paciano, Panicale, Passignano sul Trasimeno and Tuoro sul Trasimeno. It is approximately 58 kilometers around Lago Trasimeno and wineries are located around the lake. There are approximately 25 wineries in Trasimeno, all family-owned. Here are five wineries to visit:
Madrevite
Owned by the charming and passionate Nicola Chiucchiurlotto, Madrevite is on the western side of Lago Trasimeno, near the town of Castiglione del Lago. His grandfather bought the family property after World War II and planted vines for home wine production. After university, Nicola worked in France and then returned home to start making wine commercially at his family home. The winery was named Madrevite, which has two meanings. A “vite” is a screw or type of key used to lock and unlock big barrels of oak. But Madrevite also means “mother vine.”
Nicola’s first bottling was in 2004. He worked only with red grapes until adding Trebbiano Spoletino in 2007. The Madrevite estate is now 150 acres with 37 acres devoted to vineyards. The rest of the land is a blend of forests, olive groves, and grain and legume fields. Nicola works with Grechetto, Trebbiano Spoletino, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Syrah. But the most important grape is Gamay del Trasimeno from which he makes a rosé and two red wines. Nicola also makes a Metodo Ancestrale sparkling wine with Trebbiano Spolentino.
In addition to grape growing and winemaking, Nicola has 1500 olive trees and makes olive oil. He also grows Trasimeno beans and chickpeas and is one of six Slow Food producers of Fagiolino di Trasimeno.
Visiting Madrevite:
Madrevite offers guided wine tastings paired with typical products. In the summer, Madrevite offers picnics in the vineyard where you bring a blanket and can enjoy wine, food trucks, and a DJ while watching the sunset over Lago di Chiusi.
Madrevite also offers accommodation for larger groups at Azienda Agricola La Poderina dei Poggi, a modern farmhouse overlooking the vineyards. There are two buildings with a total of six bedrooms, nine bathrooms, a pool, and a tennis court.
Azienda Agricola Montemelino
Located on the northern hills of Lago Trasimeno, Montemelino was established in 1961 by Margret Etten and Guido Cantarelli. Born in Germany, Margret was sent to Perugia to learn Italian. She fell in love with Guido and together they purchased land. Today her daughter Sabina and her husband Pier manage the 60-hectare, organic farm that includes nine hectares of grapes and 15 hectares of olives.
A family-owned and run business, Montemelino is managed by a team of nine full-time staff who all live on the property and live off the land. They produce local grape varieties Grechetto, Trebbiano, Gamay di Trasimeno, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, and Sangiovese, as well as Merlot and Pinot Nero. Montemelino makes a textured rosé with Ciliegiolo, a fresh white wine made from Trebbiano, and a full-bodied white wine with lots of character made with Grechetto. A standout is Grappolo Rosso, a blend of Gamay di Trasimeno and Sangiovese, that offers ripe red fruit notes and a fresh finish.
Visiting Montemelino:
Situated on the border between Umbria and Tuscany, Montemelino is surrounded by breathtaking landscapes. Book a visit to the cellar for a guided tasting which includes a visit to the vineyard and production area, a flight of wines, and a tasting of their olive oil.
Montemelino is centrally located and is an ideal place to relax. On the estate property, there are farmhouses of two villages, Borgo Dante and Fonte Sant’Angelo, which have both been transformed into modern apartments for guests. The apartments are powered by solar energy and each apartment has a terrace or private outdoor space. Swimming pools are discreetly nestled among the olive trees.
Azienda Agraria Carlo Marco Carini
On the eastern side of Lago Trasimeno is the 140-hectare Carini farm. Created in the mid-1880s by Peppino Carini, the principal business was olive oil and livestock. Descendants Armando and Bruno Carini began marketing their products locally in the 1970s. In 2000, brothers Carlo and Marco took over the company, transforming it into a commercial business.
An organic property since 2016, Carini includes vineyards, olive groves, and wild areas to raise pigs and sheep for meat and milking. Much of the property is a protected natural reserve. The 14 hectares of vineyards are planted to Grechetto, Chardonnay, Trebbiano, Pinot Bianco, Semillon, Merlot, Cabernet, Sangiovese, and Grenache (Gamay di Trasimeno). From Grenache, they produce a Metodo Classico sparkling wine, a rosé, and red wines.
Visiting Carini:
The historic Carini property is home to a modern winery and tasting room. A guided tasting can include more than just wines. There is also olive oil. And you can enjoy a flight of wines with Cinta Senese cured meats, pecorino cheeses, and “torta al testo” a traditional Umbrian recipe made from a dough of soft wheat flour, water, salt, and yeast, cooked under the ashes.
Pucciarella
Nearby to Carini is the Pucciarella farm which extends over 300 hectares in the municipalities of Magione and Corciano. Built in 1717, the heart of the company is the Castle, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and a small forest. Privately owned, Puciarella is one of the largest wineries in Trasimeno and Umbria. With 90 hectares of vineyards planted, Puciarella makes a broad range of wines. Beginning in 1989, they were pioneers in Umbria in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as Vin Santo wine.
Visiting Puciarella:
A visit to Puciarella can include a tour of the vineyards and cellars, a visit to the farming culture museum, and a wine tasting. Sparkling wine lovers will enjoy visiting the underground cellar to see where the traditional method sparkling wines and Vin Santo wines are made. With 25 hectares of olive groves, it is possible to do an olive oil tasting with a guided tour inside an old olive mill. Puciarella also produces honey from the beehives in the vineyard.
Puciarella offers accommodations inside the castle where spacious apartments have been created. While staying at Puciarella, explore the manor garden with the private Church dedicated to Sant’Anna and a splendid swimming pool with a jacuzzi.
Castello di Solomeo
On the east side of Lago Trasimeno is the medieval village of Solomeo. The village, located on a hill, is where the wife of Italian luxury fashion designer and philanthropist Brunello Cucinelli was born. The hamlet, like many in Italy, had become depopulated and abandoned until, in 1982, Cucinelli began to restore the ancient buildings and created a cultural center. Cucinelli reinvested his profits into the community to beautify Solomeo and its industrial surroundings. He turned the ruined castle into the company’s headquarters and moved his operations into several old mills. On the outskirts of the town are the company’s state-of-the-art facilities. The entire area of Solomeo is dedicated to culture, art, history, and tradition. There is the Cucinelli Theater, a newly built Renaissance-style building that hosts plays, concerts and ballet shows, and opposite the theater is an oval space called the Amphitheater, which hosts music festivals and shows during the summer. There is a terraced garden called the Garden of Philosophers, dedicated to meditation and contemplation of nature. Inspired by Renaissance workshops, there is a School of Crafts, providing hands-on training for tailors and seamstresses. The Aurelian Neohumanistic Academy is an area dedicated to meetings and conviviality, with a library of classical and modern books and the Universal Library of Solomeo is being built. Outside the town on a hill is a giant monument called the “Tribute to Human Dignity” with five arches made from travertine marble that symbolize America, Europe, Africa, Asia, and Oceana.
Across from the monument is Castello di Solomeo where the Cucinelli family produces wine and olive oil. The organically farmed five-acre vineyard was planted in 2011 to Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon and a magnificent, modern winery was built. Castello di Solomeo released its first wine in 2018. They make one wine from a blend of the four grapes. There are currently six vintages available, but the wines are very exclusive at 500 Euro per bottle. But a portion of the sales from the wine and olive oil is used for philanthropic programs like building the library.
How To Get To Lago Trasimeno
Lago Trasimeno is in the northern part of Umbria, on the border with Tuscany. It is centrally located, 30 minutes from Perugia, 45 minutes from Assisi, one hour from Florence, and one-and-a-half hours from Rome. If taking the train from Rome or Florence, there is a fast train to Chiusi which is 20-minutes away from Trasimeno.
The Villages of Trasimeno
There are small medieval villages around Lago Trasimeno that some will argue are some of the most beautiful in Italy. The villages of Trasimeno include Castiglione del Lago, Tuoro, Passignano, Magione, Panicale, Paciano, Piegaro, and Citta della Pieve.
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Castiglione del Lago, located on the hill overlooking Lake Trasimeno, is on the west side of the lake and offers the impressive architecture of Palazzo Corgna and Rocca del Leone.
Touro, a typical fishing village in the north of Trasimeno, is a historical site of the Trasimento battle where Consul Flaminius lost his life against Hannibal’s victorious Carthaginian army. East of Touro is Passignano which stands out with its high tower overlooking the lake. You can visit this village by bicycle, or on foot, on the bike path that runs along almost the entire lake basin. Magione is on the eastern shore of Trasimeno and is home to a pilgrim house (magione) built in the Middle Ages by the Knights Templar.
On the south side of Trasimeno, Panicale was created as a castle to control and defend the southern slopes of Lake Trasimeno and offers natural terraces to admire Lago Trasimeno. Paciano, perched almost 400 meters above sea level, is home to a well-preserved medieval castle.
South of Panicale and Paciano are Piegaro and Castiglione del Lago. Piegaro, a small medieval town surrounded by walls dating back to the Roman period, is home to the Glass Museum, a testimony to the ancient local art. Castiglione del Lago is in a hilly area 500 meters above sea level. The small town offers red brick buildings and picturesque streets. It is also where you can find the works of Umbrian painter Perugino who once lived there.
Where to Stay in Trasimeno
Rastrello Boutique Hotel
Rastrello is located in the village of Panicale which has been recognized as one of the “Borghi più belli d’Italia” (Most Beautiful Villages of Italy). Rastrello is a boutique hotel located in a restored 14th-century palazzo. It is owned by American Christiane Wassmann whose parents first moved to Panicale over 30 years ago. The 500-year-old palazzo was restored with its original stone walls, beams, ironwork, and fireplaces and melded with custom furniture to create a warm and inviting hotel. There are nine unique rooms and seven more will be in the palazzo next door. The rooms offer views of Lago Trasimeno and the Umbrian hills. The common areas are inviting and will make you feel like you are in the living room of your own home.
Hotel Aganoor
In the historic center of Castiglione del Lago, Hotel Aganoor is on the second floor of an 18th-century building. It has eight spacious rooms decorated simply but with modern amenities. Some rooms overlook the lake, while others face the center of Castiglione del Lago. Hotel Aganoor is only a few meters from the Palazzo Ducale and Rocca de Leone, the medieval fortress.
Where To Eat
The cuisine in Umbria reflects the fact that Umbria is landlocked. You will find heavy, meaty dishes, as well as lake fish, such as perch and pike. Two signature dishes are Carpa Regina in porchetta and Tegamaccio. Carpa Regina (Queen Carp) is the best-known lake fish that is baked like herb-roasted pork (porchetta). Tegamaccio is a fish soup stew made from all types of fish from Lake Trasimeno and cooked with the best olive oil, white wine, and herbs. Trasimeno is also famous for the truffles harvested from the surrounding forested hills.
In Panicale, Rastrello also offers a farm-to-table restaurant Cucina & Giardino led by Chef Nicola Fanfano. The menu is linked to the territory, harvesting vegetables and herbs daily from their own gardens and sourcing products locally. Serving dinner daily and brunch on Sundays, Giardino offers a panoramic garden terrace with breathtaking views as well as an intimate indoor space.
Images courtesy Allison Levine.
Ristorante Masolino is also located in Panicale. Established in 1959, Masolina is a family-owned business preparing dishes only using ingredients linked to their territory with dishes like Chianina carpaccio, tagliolini with a lake flavor, and pork fillet on chickpea cream.
Rossa di Sera is in the fishing village of San Feliciano in the commune of Magione. Located on the lake, the restaurant is charming, eclectic, and inviting and a perfect place to watch the sunset. The menu changes seasonally with a focus on slow food products and local organic food and has a wonderful, dynamic wine list.
L’Acquario is a restaurant within the walls of the village of Castiglione del Lago. Serving traditional dishes that tell the story of the history and nature of the lake, L’Acquariooffers homemade pasta and bread and uses local ingredients.
La Schiaccia dell’Opio has two locations, one in Montepulciano and one in Castiglione del Lago. Here you can enjoy a delicious sandwich made with focaccia bread that is crunchy on the outside and soft inside and filled with fresh ingredients including meats and cheeses.
La Cantina is located on the ground floor of the 18th-century building that houses Hotel Aganoor in Castiglione del Lago. With a stunning view of the lake from the large patio, you can enjoy typical Umbrian dishes, as well as pizza baked in a wood oven.
Trasimeno is a historic area, and vines have always been cultivated there, yet it remains to be a “hidden gem” among the historical wine regions of Italy.