Let’s explore the North Adriatic. I am referring to the northernmost part of the Adriatic Sea, which is a section of the Mediterranean Sea located between the Italian Peninsula to the west and the Balkan Peninsula to the east. The North Adriatic refers to ten wine regions within three countries, Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia. Collio, Colli Orientali, Grave, Isonzo, Carso, and Aquileia in Italy, Brda, Vipava, and Karst, and a part of Istria in Slovenia, and Istria and Kvarner in Croatia have shared histories, traditions, cultures, and wine grape varieties. Despite the borders that separate each country and region, let’s look at the North Adriatic as one larger region the way we think of Piemonte, Tuscany, Burgundy, and Bordeaux.
A Brief History of the Region
The North Adriatic’s winemaking tradition dates back thousands of years. While the Illyrians, an ancient people native to the western Balkans, were among the earliest to cultivate vines in the region, it was the Greeks who significantly expanded viticulture along the Adriatic coast. The Romans later built upon these traditions, establishing Aquileia as a key wine trade center in what is now northeastern Italy.
During the medieval period, the region was influenced by various ruling powers. The Republic of Venice dominated much of the North Adriatic, particularly the coastal and island territories, while the Habsburg Monarchy controlled the inland areas, including Gorizia and parts of Friuli. After the Napoleonic Wars, the 1815 Congress of Vienna reaffirmed Austrian rule over much of northeastern Italy, extending its influence as far west as Milan.
Following World War I, the Treaty of Rapallo (1920) granted Istria and parts of Dalmatia to Italy. During this period, an aggressive policy of Italianization was enforced, requiring the local population to adopt the Italian language and customs, a legacy still evident in the Italian-speaking minority communities of Slovenia and Croatia today.
After World War II, the Paris Peace Treaties of 1947 redrew the region’s borders, transferring Istria, Rijeka, and parts of Dalmatia from Italy to the newly formed Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. This led to the Istrian–Dalmatian exodus, in which many ethnic Italians emigrated due to changing political and social conditions.
With the dissolution of Yugoslavia in 1991, Slovenia and Croatia emerged as independent nations. Today, Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia are sovereign states, each with its own language, yet they share a deep cultural and historical connection. As members of the European Union, their borders are largely open, allowing for seamless travel. Despite past divisions, the North Adriatic remains a unified region in terms of geography, climate, winemaking traditions, and cultural heritage.
Natural landscapes transcend political borders. Across Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia, the North Adriatic landscape encompasses mountains, hills, and flat plains. The North Adriatic is the shallowest part of the Adriatic, with sandy seabeds and warm, calm waters. Rivers like the Po (Italy), Soča (Slovenia), and Mirna (Croatia) shape the inland landscapes, with fertile plains and river valleys. The wetlands and estuaries near these rivers are rich in biodiversity.
The climate of the North Adriatic is an extreme Mediterranean climate at the border of a Continental climate. The Julian and Dinaric Alps send snow and cold air resulting in hot days and cold nights.
The different soil types are limestone, marl, and iron-rich red clay, all found very close to each other. Ponca soils, also known as flysch, are found throughout the North Adriatic. Ponca is composed of marl and sandstone and contains marine fossils. The Karst Plateau which is found primarily in Slovenia (in the Karst region) and in northeastern Italy (Carso), features dramatic limestone cliffs, caves, and sinkholes, with vineyards and stone-built villages dotting the landscape. The limestone runs through the North Adriatic from Friuli to Croatia and contributes a unique minerality to the wines of the area.
The Grapes of the North Adriatic
The two primary grapes found in all areas of the North Adriatic are Malvasia Istriana and Refosco. Malvasia Istriana is not related to other Malvasia grapes in Italy. On wines produced in Istria, Croatia, the grape is written as Malvasia Istria but in the rest of the North Adriatic, it is called Malvasia. Other popular grape varieties found in the region include Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Schioppettino, Pignolo, Merlot, and Tazzelenghe, which translates to “tongue cutter” due to its high acidity. Additional grape varieties found are Picolit, Pinot Bianco, Riesling, Verduzzo, Traminer, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc.
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Key Wine Regions & Wineries To Visit Throughout The North Adriatic
ITALY
Colli Orientali, whose official name is Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, is in the eastern hills of Friuli. It is known for Picolit (a dessert wine) and Refosco (a red wine). There are four DOCGs in this region. Ramandolo DOCG is sweet wine made from Verduzzo grapes. Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG is made with the rare grape variety Picolit. Rosazzo DOCG is the vineyard around the historical Rosazzo Abbey which dates back to the early Middle Ages. Rosazzo DOCG wines are blends made with Ribolla Gialla. Cialla DOCG and Cialla Picolit DOCG are from a small valley called Cialla.
Suggested Wineries:
Monviert – Monviert means “open mountain” in the Friulian language and refers to the small church built on top of the hill in 1522 that sits over an open view of the 87 hectares owned by Franco Zorzettig.
La Tunella – With a 50-year history, 3rd generation brother Massimo and Marco Zorzettig, along with their mother Gabriella, produce wines with a philosophy to “do little is to do better.”
Rodaro – Producing estate bottled wines since 1846, Rodaro dates back to when Friuli was part of the Austrian Empire. Today the winery is owned by winemaker Paolo Rodaro and his wife Lara. Their Villa Romano-Rodaro is surrounded by 35 acres of vineyards and inside the Villa are murals from the early 1900s from wandering painter Giacomo Meneghini.
COLLIO
This wine region is within Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy on the western end of the North Adriatic. Collio is shaped in a curve and sits on the border of Slovenia between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea. Collio is known for its white wines and is famous for its Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio. The Collio DOC allows as many as 12 white and 5 red grape varieties which can be used in a blend or for single variety wines.
Suggested Wineries:
Radikon – The Radikon family has had their land in Oslavia since 1861 where they worked as farmers. In 1979, Stanko Radikon bottled his first vintage. Stanko Radikon, along with Josko Gravner, Movia, and Edi Kante, began making wine using mostly forgotten techniques of extended maceration and long aging and helped reintroduce the world to orange wines.
Edi Keber – The Keber family has been making wine for 350 years. Edi Keber first bottled wine in 1957 and today his son Kristian follows in his footsteps. The family has 10 hectares of vineyards and makes a single white wine that blends Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, and Ribolla Gialla.
Primosic – Located in the heart of the Collio region, Primosic has been making wine since the 19th century and specializes in white wines and skin-contact wines.
SLOVENIA
The Primorska Region, or coastal Slovenia, is the leading wine region in Slovenia, with four primary winemaking districts: Brda, Vipava, Kras (or Karst), and Slovenia Istria.
Goriška Brda is often called “Slovenian Tuscany” and is known for Rebula (Ribolla Gialla) and Merlot blends.
Suggested Wineries:
Marjan Simcic – A historic winery established in 1860, Marjan Simcic is the 5th generation in his family to make wine. Located 300 meters from the border with Italy, Marjan has 26 hectares of biodynamically-farmed land, with 9 of the hectares in Italy. Marjan produces single vineyard wines from historical vineyards first classified in 1786.
Dolfo – Marko Skočaj is the 3rd generation of Dolfo Winery, started by his grandfather Dolfo Skočaj after the First World War. Marko produces wines with minerality and one traditional method sparkling wine.
Štekar Wines – Second-generation Jure Stekar manages 10 hectares of vineyards. Certified organic in 2006, Štekar wines were the first certified organic wines in the Goriška Brda region.
Vipava Valley
This region is noted for Zelen and Pinela, two indigenous white grape varieties that produce light, crisp white wines.
Suggested Wineries:
Tilia Estate – Founded by Matjaž Lemut in 1996, Tilia Estate is known as the House of Pinots. As one of Slovenia’s premier Pinot Noir growers and winemakers, Matjaž also grows Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Yellow Muscat from a total of 10 hectares.
Saksida – The fifth generation of the Sakside family run the family business with 5 hectares of vineyards overlooking the Vipava River. In addition to winemaking, the family offers both bungalow and camping accommodations and culinary options.
Bric – Once known as Frlan’s farm, BRIC is a family-owned business going back to 1853, In addition to producing indigenous wines from Malvazija and Rebula, they also make wines from straw-dried grapes. There is an agritourism farm with six rooms, a pool with a spa, and a selection of homegrown food.
Istria
Istria is located on the Istrian Peninsula and is the largest wine region near the North Adriatic in Croatia. Istria was once part of Venezia and today part is in Slovenia and part is in Croatia. The flagship white wine is Malvazija Istarska (Malvasia Istriana) which is fresh and mineral-driven. The primary red wine is Teran which produces a robust wine.
Suggested Wineries:
Rojac – The Rojac family has been making wines since the 17th century. Owner Uros returned to the family business after university and focuses on organically grown traditional grape varieties which can be enjoyed on a terrace overlooking scenic hills.
Korenika & Moškon – The biodynamically certified family-owned winery was established in 1984 by Miran Korenika and his business partner Ignac Moškon who decided to revive the winemaking tradition that was interrupted during the communist regime. They farm 25 hectares of vineyards near the sea.
Santomas – With vineyards located in the hills above the Slovenian coast, Santomas focuses on the production of native grape varieties Refošk/Refosco and Istrian Malvasia. In addition, the Glavina family has been producing olive oil since the second half of the 19th century.
CROATIA
Kvarner Region, east of Istria, encompasses the coastal areas and islands near Rijeka, and on the island of Krk a crisp and fresh white wine is produced from Žlahtina.
Suggested Wineries:
Coronica – Moreno Coronica is recognized as one of the greatest Croatian winemakers. He produces both fresh and aged wines from Malvasia Istriana, as well as Teran, grown in red Istrain soil.
Cattunar – The Cattunar family has been rooted in the terroirs of western Istria for generations. Within their 56 hectares of vineyards, they have identified four soil types where they grow Istrian varieties Malvasia, Teran, Muscat Momjanski, and Muscat rose.
Roxanich Winery – Swiss entrepreneur Mladen Rožanić owns two single-estate vineyards in Bušura and Bačva, Istria. The biodynamically farmed vineyards are approximately 20 years old. Mladen makes a variety of natural wines including crisp white wines, long-aged skin-contact wines aged in amphora buried in the ground, and rich red wines. The cellar, located inside a hill beneath the hotel has four levels and is definitely worth a visit.
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Where To Stay
If you are ready to explore the North Adriatic, you might be wondering where to stay. One central option is to stay in the port city of Trieste. But there are some wonderful options within the wine regions of the North Adriatic. Many of the wineries offer accommodations and here are three recommendations.
Where To Stay in Cormons, Italy
Cormons, a small village located 28 miles northwest of Trieste and 7 miles west of Gorizia, is near the border with Slovenia. Accommodation in Cormons is in family-owned boutique hotels and agriturismos. Cormons is a central place to stay when exploring the Italian and Slovenian regions of the North Adriatic.
La Subida is owned and run by the Sirk family (Josko and Loredana and their grown children Tanja and Mitja). There are 21 rooms, each with a different theme and décor. Rooms are modern and spacious but also natural, honoring the environment. Breakfast is prepared daily, and dinner is served at the One Michelin Star Trattoria al Cacciatore run by Chef Alessandro Gavagna who is married to Tanja Sirk. There is also Osteria de la Subida, a casual spot to enjoy lunch or dinner or purchase local food products, including the La Subida Ribolla Gialla vinegar.
Tenuta Della Casa is a few minutes walk down the road from La Subida. Tenuta Della Casa is owned by Renato Della Casa and his wife. After working in finance in Brussels, Renato decided to start over and returned to his family’s farm which was founded at the end of last century. The farmhouse was renovated and offers six rooms and two apartments where you can be immersed in the silence of nature. Renato has also developed an educational and social farm for families to enjoy which includes animals and bees, from which he makes honey. There are walking trails through the forest. Tenuta Della Casa also produces wine.
Where To Stay in Istria, Croatia
An hour south of Trieste in central Istria in Croatia is the village of Motovun. This is where the eclectic and contemporary Roxanich Design Hotel can be found. Perched on a hillside, Roxanich Winery & Design Hotel is an experience unto its own. The unique hotel was founded by Swiss entrepreneur Mladen Rožanić. The 32-room hotel was opened in 2019 and is run by Mladen and his six daughters. Everything in the hotel was designed and constructed in Croatia, down to the mattress and pillows. Mixing old and contemporary styles, with iconic Italian 60’s aesthetics blended with elements reflecting the rich heritage of Istria, each room is creatively, almost hedonistically, designed with bunk bed style queen beds wrapped in velvet and a ceiling of mirrors. The restaurant serves zero-kilometer cuisine.
Don’t let the political borders of these three countries keep you from exploring the regions of the North Adriatic as one. The North Adriatic is a treasure trove for wine enthusiasts, blending tradition with innovation in its winemaking practices.